SD Alcohol 仍然為酒精成份,只是據說因為經過處理,其蒸發速度較快,也因此能將化妝品的香味更快散逸而出,且停留於肌膚的時間也較短[1]。
以常見添加物(變性劑)而言,使用t-Butyl alcohol、denatonium benzoate、diethyl phthalate、methyl alcohol製成的變性酒精,安全性優於使用quassin、brucine、brucine sulfate者。在化妝品及護膚產品中許可使用的變性酒精包括SD Alcohol 3-A, 30, 39, 40。
由於其刺激性之考量,雖具有良好之輔助卸妝效力,但不宜經常出現在卸妝類產品中,拒絕指數為 3/5(越高越不好)[2],可讓其他成份感覺清爽、不黏膩又好推勻,但會滲入健康細胞中,溶解表皮脂質,長期使用會造成皮膚逐漸黯淡無光澤[2]。
[2] 張麗卿,『優質保養品選擇策略』,聯經出版社,2003/07/10。
There are several grades of denatured alcohol, but the denaturants used are generally similar. The formulation for completely denatured alcohol, according to British regulations is typical:
Completely denatured alcohol must be made in accordance with the following formulation: with every 90 parts by volume of alcohol mix 9.5 parts by volume of methanol or a substitute for methanol and 0.5 parts by volume of crude pyridine, and to the resulting mixture add mineral naphtha (petroleum oil) in the proportion of 3.75 litres to every 1000 litres of the mixture and synthetic organic dyestuff (methyl violet) in the proportion of 1.5 grams to every 1000 litres of the mixture.
雷射後7天內不可使用含有美白與酒精成份怕反黑。這個"變性酒精"是否同反黑成份
Paula's Choice on denatured alcohol:
'When you see (denatured alcohol) listed among the first six ingredients on an ingredient label, without question they will aggravate and be cruel to skin. No way around that, it’s simply bad for all skin types. Consequences include dryness, erosion of the surface of skin (that’s really bad for skin), and a strain on how skin replenishes, renews, and rejuvenates itself. Alcohol just weakens everything about skin.
http://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skin-care-basics/_/alcohol-in-skin-care-the-facts
The Paula's Choice comment is correct. It is best to avoid denatured alcohol entirely if possible.
Cosmetic formulations containing SD Alcohol 40-B (denatured with Denatonium Benzoate) were not sensitizers in repeated insult patch tests. A gel formula containing 29% SD Alcohol 40-B and a spray liquid containing 12% SD Alcohol 40-B did not induce photoallergy, dermal sensitization, or phototoxic response in human subjects.
SDアルコール40-B(Denatonium Benzoateで変性)を含有する化粧用製剤は、反復傷害パッチ試験において増感剤ではなかった。 29%SDアルコール40-Bおよび12%SDアルコール40-Bを含有するスプレー液を含むゲル配合物は、ヒト被験者において光アレルギー、皮膚感作または光毒性反応を誘発しなかった。
Because dermal application or inhalation of cosmetic products containing these ingredients will not produce significant systemic exposure to ethanol, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that safety of the ingredients should be predicated on the safety of the denaturants used. The Panel considered that the adverse effects knownto be associated with Alcohol ingestion included in this safety assessment do not suggest a concern for Alcohol Denat.
これらの成分を含有する化粧品の皮膚への適用または吸入は、エタノールに対する重大な全身曝露をもたらさないため、CIR専門家パネルは、使用される変性剤の安全性に基づいて成分の安全性を判斷すべきであると結論付けた。パネルは、この安全性評価に含まれているアルコール摂取に関連していることが判明している副作用は、アルコール脫顆粒に対する懸念を示唆していないと考えた。
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10915810802032388